Iceland: kjötsúpa, the lamb soup that keeps you warm
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I prefer recipes that do not strive for effect, but stand tall on the plate and carry you through the day. That is why, in my LaBouffe column, I gladly return to kjötsúpa, Icelandic lamb soup. In Reykjavík, when the air still seems to hold the warmth of the springs and the wind puts an end to grand speeches, I understand why this dish has remained a true staple of Icelandic tables: it is straightforward, nourishing, unadorned—the kind of cooking I love when I want to stay balanced without giving up pleasure. As someone who loves photography as much as cooking, I find the same thing in it: simple light, a clear composition, and that moment when everything becomes legible without being pretentious. For 4 to 6 people, I use 500 to 700 g of diced lamb shoulder or neck, 2 litres of water, 2 onions, 3 carrots, 3 potatoes, 1 small turnip or rutabaga if I can find one, 1 leek, shredded white cabbage, a few peppercorns, salt, and a handful of pearl barley if I want to stay as close as possible to the most traditional version. I first bring the meat to a gentle simmer in the water, skim it carefully, then add the onion and pepper and let it cook slowly for at least an hour. Next, I add the chopped vegetables and barley, and continue cooking until the lamb is tender and the vegetables have lent their sweetness to the broth. I salt at the end, because I like to keep the soup clear, clean, honest. I serve it piping hot, sometimes with a dark bread, sometimes on its own, depending on my mood. What I love about this Icelandic recipe is that it speaks of patience and restraint. It nourishes without weighing you down, warms you without disguising the flavours, and fits quite well with the way I approach others: calmly, with lasting attention rather than grand gestures. In LaBouffe, I often seek this kind of quiet truth—the kind that makes a dish more than a recipe: a way to hold your place, to feel good, and to share something simple, substantial, and real.
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