A curiosity not to be missed: the Désert de Retz
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# Désert de Retz, the constructed dream of an 18th-century garden In Chambourcy, in the Yvelines département, on the northern edge of the Forest of Marly, the Désert de Retz forms a landscape unlike any other. Created at the end of the 18th century by the aristocrat François-Nicolas-Henri Racine de Monville, this Anglo-Chinese garden embodies the spirit of folly gardens: structures designed to surprise, evoke distant worlds, or create the impression of ruins stumbled upon during a walk. The word “desert” does not refer here to an arid expanse. From the 17th century onwards, it could describe a secluded place, conducive to retreat and to entertaining free from formal etiquette. The choice of this name reflects the atmosphere sought: an estate conceived as an interlude, removed from ordinary social life. Its name also refers to local history. “Retz” is thought to be a corruption of the name of Barthélemy de Roye, or de Retz, chamberlain to Philip Augustus and founder of Joyenval Abbey. ## Why make the detour The Désert de Retz is among the rare gardens of the late 18th century preserved in a form close to its original creation. Its appeal lies in the ambition of its creator: to turn a landscaped estate into a succession of scenes, architectural silhouettes, and contrasting impressions. Originally, the site covered 38 hectares and included seventeen follies, along with rare plant species from different parts of the world. This combination of vegetation, imaginative architecture, and a taste for surprise made it an especially distinctive garden. Today, 17 hectares remain. In 2007, they were transferred to the municipality of Chambourcy by the Joyenval golf course for the symbolic sum of one euro. The site thus retains the memory of a far larger estate, where visitors came as much to walk as to lose their bearings. ## The best time to visit The Désert de Retz lends itself to an unhurried visit, when the light reveals the garden’s contours, vistas, and the dialogue between its follies and its trees. Periods when the foliage is changing can be especially effective in highlighting the site’s landscape character. As visiting conditions may vary depending on the season and the management of the estate, it is advisable to consult the official information issued by the municipality of Chambourcy before travelling. ## Preparing your visit This is not a garden to rush through. The appeal of the Désert de Retz lies in the walk itself and in the attention paid to its design: the estate is not merely decorative; it expresses a distinctly 18th-century way of inventing an elsewhere within a French landscape. Wear clothing suitable for walking outdoors and for the terrain of a historic garden. To help preserve this landscape heritage, stay on authorised paths and observe any instructions in force on site. ## Access and landmarks The Désert de Retz is located in Chambourcy, in the Yvelines département of the Île-de-France region, near the Forest of Marly. It occupies the former area of Saint-Jacques-de-Roye, or Retz, within the municipality. The key reference point is therefore Chambourcy, between wooded landscapes, the legacy of Joyenval Abbey, and the heritage of late-18th-century gardens. Before visiting, check access arrangements and any visiting conditions through the municipality’s official channels.
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Where: Saint-Germain-en-Laye — Ile-de-France