My Northern Drinks, from Non-Alcoholic Options to Genever
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When I think about the LaBouffe section, I do not only think about what is on the plate, but also about what accompanies it in the glass—especially in Hauts-de-France. I follow one simple rule: I choose drinks that support the meal rather than overwhelm it. When I want to stay sober and clear-headed, I go for a non-alcoholic drink with some character, such as a crisp cold chicory drink or farmhouse apple juice from the Cambrésis. I like them because they have a genuine place in everyday life: after a walk around the Citadel, on the way back from a visit to the Grand-Place, or when I come home from a day that has been too packed to feel like making things complicated. I also use them in cooking, and that is where the trick becomes useful: I can reduce apple juice into a glaze for poultry, or add a little chicory to a preparation to give it a subtle, very Northern depth without weighing down the flavour. When I move on to aperitifs, I stick to the same principle of balance. I think of bière de garde, which has that very local role of starting the meal without stealing the show, especially alongside forthright food such as maroilles tart, flamiche or a slow-cooked dish. I also think of Houlle genever, which I use sparingly because it has real aromatic strength: I like it as a small touch in a sauce for rabbit, white meat or even a pan of vegetables, and I save it for times when I want a true regional accent, not an effect. I do not forget Northern farmhouse cider when I am looking for something more easy-going at the table, nor the straightforward pairings that work without pretending to be anything else. I remain cautious about wine in this region, because I find that the most expressive local drinks are often those made from beer, apples or genever. In practice, I mainly keep two specific uses in mind: bière de garde is a natural companion to Northern dishes, and genever becomes as much a cooking ingredient as a drink with character. That is how I talk about LaBouffe in my own way: I connect flavour, balance and the moment, without putting on an act, through simple choices that genuinely hold up. Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Consume in moderation.
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Where: Hauts-de-France