In Prague, I Always Come Back to svíčková na smetaně
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I do not talk about food to make noise; I talk about food when it feels like me: discreet, attentive, reassuring. That is why I love returning to svíčková na smetaně, this typical Czech dish that gives me the impression of a restrained, almost modest tenderness, much like myself. When I think of Prague, I do not think of a postcard; I think of its bridges and narrow streets, of a slow walk before going home to make something warm, substantial, sincere. In LaBouffe, that is exactly what I look for: a meal that nourishes without overwhelming, that takes its time, as I do when I am getting to know people. I use around 800 g of braising beef, preferably chuck or shin, 2 carrots, 1 small celeriac, 1 parsley root if I can find one, 1 large onion, 1 bay leaf, a few peppercorns, 3 allspice berries, 2 tablespoons of mustard, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of flour, 20 cl of cream, a little butter or lard, and salt. I first sauté the onion in the fat, then sear the meat on all sides. I add the finely diced vegetables, bay leaf, pepper and allspice, then add enough water or light stock to cover. I let it simmer gently for two hours, sometimes a little longer, because I prefer meat that almost falls apart under the spoon. When the meat is tender, I set it aside and blend the sauce with the vegetables. I add the cream, mustard, sugar and vinegar to achieve that interplay of sweetness and a tangy note that gives the dish all its charm. I adjust the salt, slice the meat, spoon the sauce over it generously, then serve it with knedlíky, those steamed bread dumplings which, to me, are the most faithful accompaniment. I am also happy to add a spoonful of lingonberry jam, because I like that small bright note that balances the whole. I cook this recipe when I need to return to something simple and substantial, without closing myself off to refinement. After a day working as a nursing assistant, I like this kind of dish: one that requires patience but gives much in return. In it, I find a form of balance that moves me: tender meat, a rounded sauce, a discreet acidity, and the very calm feeling of having prepared a real meal, not merely dinner. That is also why svíčková na smetaně has a place in the way I love to eat: it is reserved, generous, and says what matters without overdoing it.
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Where: CZ