Besançon, Eggs in Meurette Sauce
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In LaBouffe, I always write about what truly connects me to the table: flavour, rhythm, balance. I cook the way I approach my relationships—slowly, attentively, without seeking an immediate effect. When I make eggs in meurette sauce, I find exactly that way of being: a Burgundy–Franche-Comté recipe that calls for time, patience and a real sense of balance. I often make it after a day of museums and coffee, when I want a dish that seems simple but is deep, grounded, almost comforting. For four people, I use very fresh eggs, a generous slice of country bread, smoked bacon, an onion, a carrot, a little garlic, a knob of butter, a spoonful of flour, a bottle of Burgundy red wine, thyme, bay leaf, a dash of vinegar, salt, pepper and, if I have any, a few button mushrooms. I sauté the bacon with the onion and carrot, sprinkle over the flour, let it take on a light colour, then gradually pour in the wine with the bouquet garni to make a reduced, glossy sauce. I let it simmer gently, because that is when the flavour settles in. Separately, I poach the eggs in barely simmering vinegared water for three minutes—just long enough for the whites to set while the yolks remain soft. I toast the bread, rub it with garlic if I feel like it, then spoon over the meurette sauce and place the eggs on top, without rushing the gesture. I finish with a little pepper and, sometimes, a few sautéed mushrooms. What I love about this recipe is that it does not try to impress: it settles in, keeps you company, truly nourishes you. In Besançon, in the loop of the Doubs, or more simply at home, it reminds me that I prefer things that are straightforward and warm, and that a good dish can start a conversation with as much gentleness as a shared coffee.
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Where: Bourgogne-Franche-Comte