From Dijon Blackcurrant to Pontarlier: My Drinks from Bourgogne-Franche-Comté
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At LaBouffe, I see drinks as a way of setting the pace of a meal. I do not like tables that impose themselves too quickly; I prefer those that open gently, with a clear drink, a quiet remark, and a real taste of the place. In Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, I find exactly that balance in simple, expressive glasses. When I settle in the Centre, on the food-loving streets, or somewhere quieter by the beach at Lac Chanoine Kir, I follow the same logic: I am happy to start with sparkling water and a dash of Dijon blackcurrant syrup, because I want something straightforward, fresh, and easy to share, even when I am staying sober. If I choose an apéritif, I tend towards a well-balanced kir, or a Crémant de Bourgogne served without unnecessary ceremony, with gougères or a piece of Comté; I like that clean quality, almost judicial in the balance of flavours. I also save wines and spirits for moments when the meal deserves a little more depth. A glass of Burgundy chardonnay or pinot noir goes well with seasonal cooking, but I think especially of vin jaune and savagnin when I cook locally: I use them in a morel chicken sauce, or to lift a pan of mushrooms with a spoonful of cream, and then I immediately feel the connection between the bottle and the plate. For dessert, I might choose a little Macvin du Jura, especially if I am serving fruit or a walnut tart, while a digestif such as Pontarlier absinthe remains, for me, a very occasional, almost ceremonial end to a meal, sipped slowly. What I take away, ultimately, is that a regional drink is not merely a pairing: it is a rhythm at the table. It can support a gentle encounter, leave room for silence, and give LaBouffe that understated warmth I am always seeking. Alcohol abuse is dangerous to health. Drink in moderation.
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Where: Bourgogne-Franche-Comte