From Vichy to Chambéry, my Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes drinks throughout the meal
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At LaBouffe, I come for the real thing, not to project an image, and my tips often come down to what is in the glass. In Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, I like to think of drinks as a fully-fledged part of the meal: they should refresh, support the flavours, sometimes whet the appetite, sometimes soothe it. When I come back from a bike ride along the Rhône quays or a walk that has cleared my head, I readily turn to a well-chilled Vichy or Châteldon mineral water, because I want something crisp, mineral, almost clear-cut, that resets the palate without overwhelming everything else. I do the same with a very simple homemade drink made with sparkling water and a dash of syrup or citrus juice when I want to keep things light while still enjoying a real moment at the table; it is my way of not confusing restraint with boredom. For apéritifs, I stay very rooted in the region. I like Chambéry vermouth, served simply over ice with a twist of citrus, because it has that straightforward, aromatic quality that sets the tone for a meal without spoiling it. With a platter of Lyonnais charcuterie, cervelle de canut or a few mountain cheeses, I often prefer a crisp Savoie white, or a Bugey-Cerdon when I want more indulgent bubbles and a little more dimension. I find that it also works very well with more rustic seasonal cooking, such as a leek tart, sautéed mushrooms or a crozet gratin, because the wine accompanies without weighing things down. And when I am at a warmer, more leisurely dinner, I think of Chartreuse or a small glass of génépi at the end of the meal, especially after a mountain dish: I see them as spirits for conversation, not as an automatic choice—something to bring out to round off an evening properly, not to make it heavier. That is my tip in LaBouffe: I choose drinks as I put together a balanced meal, with character, a sense of place and a genuine feel for the moment. Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Drink in moderation.
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Where: Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes