My Tips for Making the Herbs of the Pays de la Loire Sing
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In LaBouffe, I always come back to the same idea: good cooking does not need to overdo things; it needs a fine balance of aroma, freshness and sauce. In the Pays de la Loire, I often rely on what the region does best: shallots, chives, flat-leaf parsley, a little sorrel when I want to brighten up a fish dish, and above all Nantes-style beurre blanc, which I whisk together at the last minute with a crisp Muscadet. After a day of writing or preparing a class, I like that kind of precision, almost theatrical: I gently cook the shallot in a splash of white wine, reduce it, then whisk in the butter off the heat to coat pike-perch, monkfish or simply steamed potatoes. In that simplicity, I rediscover the taste of the banks of the Erdre and of kitchens where people speak softly, but everything is crisp and clear. I also keep very practical habits for everyday cooking. I flavour Vendée mogette beans with thyme, bay leaf, garlic and a hint of summer savoury, then finish with a drizzle of oil or a knob of butter to keep the dish lively without weighing it down. I do the same with a pan-fry of market vegetables: I add parsley, a little chervil, a touch of cider vinegar, and let Guérande salt do the rest, without masking the flavours. Even for a quick sauce, I favour the region's touchstones: shallots, white wine, fresh herbs, sometimes a pinch of nutmeg in a light béchamel for leeks or a gratin. I look for people who can speak with nuance, and I cook in the same way: few flourishes, but combinations that are true, forthright and tender, and that stay with you.
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Where: Pays de la Loire