Château du Plantin — an unusual place in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

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Senegalese Tata of Chasselay: an enclosure of remembrance north of Lyon We should begin by clearing up an ambiguity: the place documented here is not a château, but the tata of Chasselay, officially known as the Chasselay National Necropolis. Located in Chasselay, in the Rhône department, this Second World War military cemetery is a place of reflection with a distinctive silhouette, designed not to erase the identity of the men it honours. I am interested in it because of this rare combination of tragic history and architecture that refuses neutrality. The tata does not simply arrange graves in rows: it forms an enclosure, conceived with reference to West African architectural traditions. Its presence in the Rhône landscape makes a powerful impression and invites us to view the history of 1940 differently. ## Why make the detour The Chasselay National Necropolis contains the remains of 196 people who fought for France. They include 188 tirailleurs from French West Africa, six soldiers from French North Africa and two legionnaires. All were massacred by the German army in June 1940, during the Battle of the Rhône Valley. These figures convey the scale of the tragedy, but they do not fully capture the significance of the site. The tata recalls that the defence of France also depended on soldiers from territories then under French administration in Africa. It makes visible military and human experiences that have long been insufficiently represented in collective accounts of the Battle of France. The word “tata” itself is especially significant. Of Manding origin, it means a “fortified enclosure” in that language and in other languages, including Wolof. At Chasselay, its builder, Jean-Baptiste Marchiani, gave it the meaning of a “sacred enclosure”, intended to receive warriors who died in combat. This definition sheds light on the architectural choice: the site is not merely a military cemetery, but also a symbolic space, designed to give the dead a setting associated with their origins. The site also bears the traces of a sensitive historical question: who was responsible for the massacre. For a long time, it was attributed to the SS Totenkopf Division. Photographs discovered in 2019, however, seem to indicate that the Wehrmacht’s 10th Panzer Division was responsible, and it is described as being just as steeped in racist ideology. This development in historical knowledge is a reminder that a memorial site is never fixed: it remains connected to historians’ work, newly discovered archives and the precision required when naming those responsible. ## The best time The Senegalese tata of Chasselay calls for a calm, unhurried visit. Soft light can help reveal the lines of the enclosure and the restraint of the whole, but the quality of the experience depends above all on the attention one is willing to give the place. Spring and autumn may suit those who prefer to walk and pause without the heat that can be more noticeable in summer. In winter, the atmosphere can also heighten the site’s solemnity, provided one accounts for the weather conditions. This is not a place to be “consumed” as part of a packed itinerary: it is better to allow ample time to read, look and leave room for silence. Commemorations may be organised around the history of the tata and its soldiers. If you wish to attend a tribute, check information with the relevant official channels or organisers before travelling, as dates and arrangements may change. ## Preparing your visit A successful visit begins here with a few historical reference points. The tata is linked to the fighting in the Rhône Valley in June 1940 and to the massacre of soldiers fighting for France. Knowing that those buried there were predominantly tirailleurs from French West Africa immediately adds depth to the visit. It is also useful to keep the nature of the site in mind: a national necropolis is a place of burial and remembrance. A discreet demeanour, restrained speech and respect for the reflection of other visitors naturally apply. The architectural interest must not overshadow this primary purpose. The tata can be approached from two complementary perspectives. The first is historical: it illuminates the racist violence at work during the Battle of France and the participation of African soldiers in the country’s defence. The second is cultural and architectural: its enclosure, inspired by West African buildings, gives this memory a tangible, visible form that is unusual in the region. Before visiting, it is best to check access conditions, the state of the site and any instructions through up-to-date official sources. Practical information may change depending on the time of year or conservation work. ## Access and reference points The Senegalese tata is located in Chasselay, in the Rhône department of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, north of Lyon. Its official designation is the Chasselay National Necropolis. These two names—“tata of Chasselay” and “Chasselay National Necropolis”—refer to the same place. The essential reference point is not merely geographical. On arrival, look for an enclosure conceived as a sacred space, inspired by West African architecture. This distinctive character explains why the site remains so striking: in a single gesture, it connects the memory of soldiers massacred in 1940, their African history and their commitment to France. At Chasselay, memory thus takes built form. It does not seek to soften the violence of the event; rather, it provides a framework for naming it, passing it on and refusing to look away.

Information

Where: Chasselay — Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes

URL : https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tata_s%C3%A9n%C3%A9galais_de_Chasselay